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Every morning, my neighborhood wakes up the same way. Vendors unlock their iron gates； old-timers begin their tai chi in the park and the jianbing sellers pedal over to their usual stations. These plucky street food salesmen totter around on rickety tricycle kitchens, buckets of sauce and batter precariously balanced on the back. Before long, a scrum of commuters seeking a meal on the go start waiting for orders. I’m usually at the front of the line.
Jianbing is Beijing’s definitive street snack. Carts and stalls selling these flavorful pancakes can be found on nearly every corner. In terms of concept, jianbing are often compared to the French crepe, but in truth are a different beast entirely. Each one is made right before your eyes according to a particular ritual. The cook begins by skilfully swirling a ladleful of batter on a griddle until it’s paper-thin. They then single-handedly crack open an egg, season with cilantro, chives, black pepper, fermented soybean sauce, black bean sauce and chili to taste. This is all folded around a fried baocui cracker for texture, and then plopped, still hot, into a wispy plastic bag. The result： a crunchy, crispy, spicy, hearty, delightful takeaway done to your heart’s desire.
During my student years here I made waiting for a jianbing my after-class habit. The carts stay out the whole day, and their steaming, crisp-and-soft smackerels are just as munchable if you’re waking up with the lark or emerging bleary-eyed from a nightclub. Come with an appetite, and you can add on hot dog sausage, extra eggs or even hunks of marinated chicken breast if you score the right cart. One time I convinced the vendor to throw orthodoxy to the wind and smear a dark chocolate bar I brought in the center of mine. Many expats extemporize on the subject of this humble pancake as a symbol of their time in Beijing, even if they were only left with vague flavor memories that they couldn’t quite grasp. A few had cravings bad enough to start up frying them up abroad： you can now bite into a jianbing （made by foreigners） in locations as far-flung as Chicago, Seattle and San Francisco.
But even these exotic outlets operate according to the capital’s recipe – which is just one version of what a jianbing could be. Beijing stalwarts love the five-grain flour, packed with gluten for a satisfying chewiness. Some argue Tianjin’s hometown jianbing guozi beats it out： their attempt uses pure mung bean flour and results in a crispier finish. Others substitute out the fried cracker for a length of fried dough twist – a local breakfast treat. And some Shandong variants wrap the noticeably thinner crepe around a crunchy leek. While this variety tastes great, you’ll want a breath mint when you’re finished.
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